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What to See in Paris

Paris was quarried out of the ground it stands on. The pale Lutetian limestone that faces Notre-Dame and the Louvre came from directly underneath the city, first from open pits and then from galleries tunnelled outward as Paris grew over its own workings. By the eighteenth century the honeycomb was failing. On 17 April 1774 the rue d'Enfer collapsed into it, and Louis XVI created a state agency in 1777 whose job was to find the holes and hold the city up.

A Guidebook Like Answer

The Catacombs

A short section of the old quarry network, filled with the remains of some six million people moved out of overflowing city cemeteries from the late eighteenth century. The bones are the second use of the space. The tunnels were mine galleries first, and the ossuary exists because two problems, unstable voids and overfull graveyards, were solved against each other.

Notre-Dame de Paris

The cathedral begun in 1163, faced in limestone cut from beneath the city, and rebuilt after the 2019 fire. The detail visitors miss is how thoroughly it was already a reconstruction: it was stripped during the Revolution and heavily restored in the nineteenth century by Viollet-le-Duc, who added the spire that burned.

The Louvre

A fortress before it was a palace and a palace before it was a museum, with the medieval foundations exposed in the basement. The moat walls you can walk beside down there are the original twelfth-century keep. The glass pyramid was fiercely opposed on completion and is now the building's least controversial feature.

Père Lachaise

A cemetery of 1804 that nobody wanted to be buried in, being too far out and unconsecrated by the standards of the day. The administration solved it with marketing: they transferred the supposed remains of Molière and La Fontaine, then Abélard and Héloïse, and plot sales rose sharply. The most famous cemetery in the world was a property play.

Sainte-Chapelle

A royal chapel of the 1240s built to house relics, with walls that are almost entirely stained glass. It was engineered as a reliquary at architectural scale. Louis IX paid far more for the relics themselves than for the building constructed to hold them, which tells you the priority.

The Panthéon

A church that became a mausoleum during the Revolution, then a church again, then a mausoleum, changing function with each swing of French politics. Foucault hung his pendulum here in 1851 to demonstrate the Earth's rotation. Its dome cracked early because the ground beneath it, like much of the Left Bank, was undermined.

Canal Saint-Martin

A canal of 1825 built to bring fresh water into the city, running partly underground beneath the boulevards. Napoleon ordered it after repeated cholera and supply problems. The covered section exists because a later administration wanted the surface for a road, which is why the canal appears to stop and start.

Arènes de Lutèce

A Roman amphitheatre in the fifth arrondissement, lost for centuries and found again in the 1860s during roadworks. It is now a public square where locals play boules among the tiered seating. Paris keeps a first-century arena as a neighbourhood park and barely mentions it.

Montmartre

The hill north of the centre, and the reason it is a hill of gypsum rather than limestone matters: it was mined so heavily for plaster that the ground beneath is exceptionally unstable. The basilica at the summit rests on deep piled foundations sunk to reach something solid. The famous artists' quarter sits on a hollowed-out hill.

Passage des Panoramas

One of the surviving covered arcades of the early nineteenth century, glass-roofed and lined with small shops. These were the ancestors of the department store and the shopping mall, built when the streets were filthy and unlit. Most were demolished; the ones left are a preserved retail idea two centuries old.

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