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What to See in New York

Manhattan's street plan was drawn before the city reached it. The Commissioners' Plan of 1811 laid a rectangular grid from Houston Street to 155th across farmland, valleys and streams, straight over two existing villages, without much regard for topography or for who owned the ground. The city then grew north into a map that was already waiting for it. Broadway cuts diagonally through the whole thing because it was a road before the grid was an idea.

A Guidebook Like Answer

The Grid itself

Not a building but the thing you are standing in. Twelve numbered avenues running north, cross streets running east and west, imposed in 1811 on land that was mostly farms. Hills were levelled and streams culverted to make it fit. The regularity that visitors find so navigable is the result of ignoring the terrain entirely.

Broadway

The diagonal that ruins the grid, and the reason Times Square, Union Square and Madison Square exist: they are the leftover triangles where an old road cuts across new right angles. Broadway predates the 1811 plan and was not part of it. Every irregular public space in midtown is a scar from that collision.

Central Park

Eight hundred and forty-three acres of entirely constructed landscape, laid out from 1858 by Olmsted and Vaux. Nothing here is natural except the bedrock outcrops. The park displaced Seneca Village, a settled community of largely African American landowners, which the city cleared by eminent domain and which was written out of the story for a century.

Grand Central Terminal

A 1913 station whose real achievement is underground: two levels of tracks buried so the land above could be sold and built on. Park Avenue runs over the train yards. The ceiling's constellations are painted backwards, which has been variously explained as an error and as a deliberate view from outside the celestial sphere.

The Brooklyn Bridge

Opened in 1883 after fourteen years, the first steel-wire suspension bridge. Its designer died of an injury sustained during surveying; his son took over and was disabled by decompression sickness from the caissons, after which his wife Emily ran the project on site for years. The bridge was substantially delivered by someone who was never formally its engineer.

The High Line

A freight rail viaduct built in the 1930s to lift dangerous street-level trains above the West Side, abandoned in 1980, and reopened as a park from 2009. It was slated for demolition. It is now among the most visited sites in the city and has demonstrably driven up property values along its entire length.

The Tenement Museum

A preserved apartment building on the Lower East Side, kept in the state successive immigrant families left it. It was sealed and unoccupied for decades after the landlord declined to fund required upgrades, which is precisely why the interiors survived. Neglect performed the preservation.

The Flatiron Building

A 1902 tower on one of Broadway's triangular leftovers, its shape dictated entirely by the site. It was not the tallest building in the city and was never intended to be. Its fame comes from being photogenic from every angle, which is a consequence of the grid collision rather than of architectural ambition.

The Staten Island Ferry

A free commuter service running past the Statue of Liberty roughly every half hour, carrying tens of thousands of people a day. It is public transport rather than a tour, and it costs nothing. It is the only free way to get a close view of the harbour that most visitors pay for.

Grand Army Plaza and Prospect Park

Olmsted and Vaux's second park, in Brooklyn, and the one they considered better than Central Park. They had learned from the first: fewer constraints, a single continuous meadow, and a design not forced to work around a reservoir. It is markedly less crowded and the locals prefer it, which is not a coincidence.

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